11 Cool New Shoes for 2017

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

DZR Jetlag Favo

From the company that brought you clipless-ready waterproof high-tops last year (DZR’s top sellers) comes two new casual cycling shoes ready for the 2016 holiday season. The Turin Boot is designed in a classy Chelsea-boot style using full-grain leather and a rubber, clipless-ready sole. The Jetlag Favo (seen above) is a light, clipless women’s shoe made of breathable mesh, performance-ready fabric, and a Velcro closure—in a refreshingly non-stereotypical color.

How would your life change if you rode every day for 21 days? C'mon, we dare you. 

Price: Turin Boot: $179, Jetlag Favo: $90
Info: dzrshoes.com

Giro Prolight Techlace

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Giro Prolight Techlace

Giro’s new Prolight Techlace road shoe is so light my first instinct was to see how far I could throw it. (I was able to resist this compulsion.) Registering on the scales at 138 grams, the shoe uses the same TeXtreme carbon fiber weave found in Giro helmets and Formula One cars, which is designed to be lighter without losing any stiffness. The Prolight closes with a Techlace system combining laces and Velco straps that eliminate pinch points while providing easy adjustability and a secure fit. The whole package is a super-breathable, ultra-lightweight marvel.

Price: $400
Info: giro.com

Quoc Night

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Quoc Night

Known for its line of super-classy leather cycling shoes, this year the company formerly known as Quoc Pham is introducing a road shoe line to accompany its casual shoes. The new Night shoe—available in versions with leather or synthetic uppers—has the same simple, sophisticated design as Quoc’s previous lines, but it’s road cleat compatible and has a full carbon sole. The shoes also use a cool double lace technique that helps you get more precise tightening—when you pull on the laces, they hold into place so you can easily tie them off. The shoes are also vented in the sole in the forefoot.

Price: $240
Info: quocpham.com

Lake MX 237 Supercross

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Lake MX 237 Supercross

The most popular Lake shoe in both mountain __bike and road versions is now available in a cyclocross model as well. The shoe is made of abrasion-resistant leather and mesh with a leather heel lining, a carbon fiber outsole with a Mountain Race X rubber sole, and two side-mounted Boas. But what really sets this shoe apart is the sizing: The big forefoot area is designed to accommodate broader feet, and it’s also available in a wide version.

Price: $300
Info: lakecycling.com

Bont Cycling Riot and Riot+

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Bont Cycling Riot and Riot+

Bont’s cool entry-level Riot shoe is heat moldable and made of carbon-composite designed to provide the look, support, and performance of a pro-level shoe, with a microfiber upper and integrated ventilation. It’s available in road and mountain versions with updated graphics in four colors: khaki, midnight with mega crimson, pearl white with black, totally lime and charcoal—and differentiated by whether you want a Boa or buckle.

Price: $159 with buckle (Riot), $179 with BOA (Riot+)
Info: bontcycling.com

Scott Road RC Lace Shoe

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Scott Road RC Lace Shoe

The cool news from Scott is that the company has leveled up its women’s road line to match what we’ve grown to expect from the men’s line in terms of carbon quality and stiffness. Scott is also now offering its Road RC shoes in all-laced versions, with a stiff carbon fiber sole and the option of colored or black laces on an all-black shoe. The shoe features perforated microfiber and a mesh upper for breathability, as well as adjustable arch support.

Price: $200
Info: scott-sports.com

Serfas Trax

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Serfas Trax

Serfas has completely redesigned its all-black, lace-up Trax mountain bike shoe to make it lighter and give it a more walkable sole that can stand up to light hiking. But the most exciting thing about the new shoe is the price, which continues to be one of the most affordable on the market at $90. The shoe has a micro-suede synthetic upper, lugged sole, wide toebox, and ventilation for breathability. It’s available now with three different colors of laces and in both men's and women's versions.

Price: $90
Info: serfas.com

Pearl Izumi X-Project P.R.O.

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Pearl Izumi X-Project P.R.O.

The new X-Project P.R.O from Pearl Izumi is designed to make the transition between riding and walking seamless with completely redesigned soles. Not only are these new soles intended to add more flexibility, but they also use the same rubber and EVA foam heel as the trail shoes from Pearl’s recently discontinued running line and reduce the size of the shoe’s carbon plate to three-fourths of the sole. The P.R.O uses a dual Boa closure. The X-Project Elite is a slightly heavier shoe with one Boa closure and a Velcro strap across the toe. This shoe comes in a new limited-editon “Amy D” version, with $100 from each shoe sale going to the Amy D Foundation to support women in cycling.

Price: $350
Info: pearlizumi.com 

Shimano S-Phyre, RC9 Road Shoe, and XC9 Trail

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Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Shimano S-Phyre, RC9 Road Shoe, and XC9 Trail

Shimano just introduced new S-Phyre mountain bike and road shoes, designed to integrate comfort and performance for racing. The shoes are designed with a microfiber synthetic leather upper with perforations for breathability and an upper with Boa IP1 dial closures. The XC9 Trail shoe has a lugged outsole made of Michelin rubber. All S-Phyre models are designed to have a more breathable toebox and arch support that can be modulated by removing or adding (included) Velcroed panels to the inside of the shoe. The shoes will be sold in stores only for $400; a $200 version will also be available with a single Boa closure and other minor alterations.

Price: $400
Info: shimano.com

Sidi Shot Vent Carbon

10/11

Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Sidi Shot Vent Carbon

Sidi’s new Shot Vent Carbon will be available for shipping in November, but if you watched the Tour de France this year, you may have noticed Chris Froome already has a pair. The new model is lighter and designed to be more breathable than previous Sidis, with more overall venting in the upper, sides, and sole. One of the biggest changes in the shoe is the movement of the two dial closures from the side of the shoe to a central position, intended to make the shoe more comfortable and eliminate hot spots where the closure falls. Sidi has also added reflectors in the heel.

Price: TBD
Info: sidi.com

Five Ten Freerider Pro

11/11

Photograph by Caitlin Giddings

Five Ten Freerider Pro

In addition to a Danny MacAskill collaboration line made up of casual riding shoes, Five Ten has a new Freerider Pro shoe for flat-pedal enduro riding coming in January. For clipless downhill riders, Five Ten has an updated Hellcat and Hellcat Pro with a new outsole and a cleat window that’s been moved back and angled. The Pro model is a bit lighter and stiffer with more of a snug fit and a synthetic weather resistant upper, according to reps at Five Ten. The standard Hellcat uses a leather and synthetic upper. Both shoes will have laces and an angled strap, increased toe protection, and stiff rubber soles designed to absorb shock and reduce vibration. Look for both Hellcats in March.

Price: TBD
Info: fiveten.com

18 Most Common Causes of Stress

Anyone who has experienced a period of extreme chronic stress is familiar with the exceptionally negative toll it can take on the body.

When we can't recover effectively from the stress response, we break down and become even more intolerant to it. The heightened physical and mental capability that is produced during the alarm stage comes at a cost—when that cortisol and adrenaline hit the system, your body prioritizes the function of the brain and muscles over digestion, reproduction, and immunity. This can be very helpful when running from a bear, but if it continues to occur chronically, then you end up with imbalances that affect other systems of your body.

There are, however, many moments in life that are more likely to cause stress than others. It is important to note that it isn't just the event or process that is stressful, but it is the way we react to it. While we are in control of some of these stressors (like the way we take care of ourselves, our attitudes and beliefs, or the diet we choose to eat), there are others that we have no control over.

The point here is not to eliminate every stressor we have in our lives but to control your reaction to the stressors that you don't have control over. Stress will always be a part of our everyday lives. We learn to live healthier and with more resilience by making adjustments where we can.

That said, pay special attention to these common life moments:

Begin Slideshow

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An Unexpected Major Life Event

This could be a death in the family, an accident, or an acute injury or illness that needs to be handled without warning.

Your Diet

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Your Diet

There are many ways in which diet can be an underlying stressor for your body: Excess sugar, toxins, caffeine, alcohol, food sensitivities and allergier, nutrient deficiencies.

Chronic Health Problems

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Chronic Health Problems

Especially those that are not easily resolved with medication or surgery and persist on an ongoing basis: Chronic disease, or chronic infection.

Exposure to Environmental Toxins

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Exposure to Environmental Toxins

This can be from work, home, water contamination, or personal-care products.

Exercise

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Exercise

Both too much or too little exercise can be an underlying source of stress.

Allergies

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Allergies

Environmental allergies chronically impact the immune system as well as interfere with daily life.

Lack of Stress Management

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Lack of Stress Management

If you don't have the means or prioritizing steps to manage stress, it can easily come from a lack of sleep, lack of time off, and lack of self-care.

Family Stress

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Family Stress

Financial Issues

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Financial Issues

Legal Problems

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Legal Problems

This can be anything from receiving a traffic ticket to being involved in a lawsuit to being incarcerated.

Emotional Difficulties

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Emotional Difficulties

How you react to situations in your daily life can be an underlying cause of stress.

Major Habit Changes

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Major Habit Changes

Any major changes to your habits, like quitting smoking or trying a new diet.

Prescription or OTO Medication

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Prescription or OTO Medication

Side effects can cause you significant stress.

Employment Changes

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Employment Changes

Changes to employment status that include: new employment, ending employment, promotion or demotion, boss/coworker troubles, change in working hours.

Education

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Education

Changes to schooling or education you may be receiving: starting formal education, ending formal education, changing institutions.

Changes in Living Situation

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Changes in Living Situation

Changes to your housing or environment: moving, remodeling, lack of stable living situation.

Fear

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Fear

Any apprehension or worry that interferes with daily life is a chronic stressor.

Attitudes and Beliefs

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Attitudes and Beliefs

The way you view the world (or the "brules" you may follow) can be a source of stress for your body.

Originally published by Rodale Wellness and adapted from The Autoimmune Wellness Handbook.

First Ride: Scott’s Spark Is a Whole New Bike

For years, Scott’s Spark has been its mainstay XC full-suspension bike, the __bike a racer would pick for a tough, technical course where its Scale hardtail wasn’t suited. But it was a big jump from the 100mm-travel Spark 29er with its XC-style geometry to the slacker, 130mm-travel Genius trail bike. That’s important because Scott says that some 60 percent of the Spark’s buyers aren’t racers; they want a light, fast, but capable trail __bike for all-around riding.

Freedom is being able to fix anything on your bike. Find out how with our course on basic bike maintenance. 

So with a major redesign for the 2017 model year, Scott turned the new Spark into exactly that, along the way expanding the line from an already broad 17 models to a whopping 39, ranging from $2,000 to $8,600. That includes an expanded RC (Racing Concept) lineup, three new Contessa women’s models, and six plus-size tire versions (four men’s and two Contessa women’s) with meaty 2.8-inch tires.

Photograph by Joe Lindsey

The all-new Spark Plus is the Spark’s rowdier brother: slacker angles, bigger tires.

That sounds like a dizzying array of options, and it is, but much of that stems from Scott offering two wheel sizes for many models. In fact, it breaks down pretty neatly: 

-The RC line is now four bikes, in either 29 and 27.5 wheel options, which get designated by a 9- or a 7- start to the model number (there’s a Contessa Spark RC 700 as well). They’re dedicated racers, with shorter travel (100mm front and rear) and 1x drivetrains; there’s no mount for a front derailleur. Scott had a nice run of luck with the new bikes, winning two Olympic gold medals and World Championships in both the Elite men (Nino Schurter) and U23 women (Jenny Rissveds) this summer.

-The main Spark line has 10 main models in either 29 or 27.5-inch versions. These feature 120mm of travel front and rear and 2x drivetrains. Where the 2016 version had conventional posts, the entire new line gets Syncros droppers.

-The Contessa line, not including the RC model above, grows to four bikes from one. They’re all 27.5 wheel only, 2x drivetrain, with droppers on all but one model.

-The Plus bikes also grow in number, with four men’s and two women’s models, all in 27-plus tire sizing, with 120mm of rear wheel travel and mostly 2x drivetrains and dropper posts.

All the new sub-lines have their own geometry, as well as some tweaks to the frame to accommodate 1x versus 2x drivetrains. But they share the same basic design overview and features.

The biggest change is a new suspension design. For years, The Spark used a single-pivot suspension with the shock mounted horizontally to the top tube. The new model is technically still a single-pivot, but uses a rocker link design that moves all pivots in line with the seat tube and orients the shock vertically, mounted to the down tube at the bottom bracket. 

Photograph courtesy of Scott Bikes

The heart of the new Spark is the redesigned rear suspension linkage, which is both lighter and more responsive than the existing version.

Scott claims there are multiple benefits to the new design, including: a higher initial leverage ratio improves small-bump sensitivity and offers better support while pedaling (less bobbing) in the middle of the shock stroke; a lighter top tube, since it no longer needs shock mount reinforcement; and more drivetrain stiffness, thanks to the upside-down shock orientation.

The rocker-link design also freed Scott up to redesign and dramatically lighten the rear triangle. The old version had four distinct pieces with a rear axle pivot and a ton of hardware bolting it all together. The new, pivotless version has two swingarm pieces (in either carbon or aluminum) and dramatically less hardware (some of it moves to the rocker link, but there’s generally less of it, and it’s not as heavy).

Scott also switched up the geometry in a major way, moving to the long-low-slack style we’re seeing on ever more trail bikes. Gone is the high/low bottom bracket setting option of the old Spark, replaced with a single orientation that’s slightly higher than the old high position. But the head tube rakes out more than two full degrees slacker than the old bike even in the low setting. Reach bumps out more than 20mm even in the small size, stack drops about 10mm, and seat angles steepen slightly.

Photograph courtesy of Scott Bikes

This illustration shows how a 1x drivetrain can help shape bike design. Far left: the existing Spark. Middle, the new Spark with direct-mount derailleur. Right, the new Spark in 1x-only trim. Notice how the width of the seat tube grows, as does chainstay height.

With the Boost axle spacing (148mm rear, 110mm front), Scott was able to dramatically shorten the chainstays (10mm) even as the overall wheelbase grows, and preserve tire clearance. These figures are specific to the 29er versions of the regular Spark line, but comparisons in the 27.5-inch versions are broadly similar. There’s no real geometry comparison for the Plus bikes, as Scott didn’t have a Plus version of the Spark in its line last year. 

The geometry on the Plus versions is similar, with some small-yet-important differences: The seat angle is half a degree slacker, with slightly longer chainstays for tire clearance and a longer wheelbase. Reach is almost identical, but stack height, courtesy in part due to the larger tire volume, increases 25mm even though the head tube is 10mm shorter.

Also updated: the venerable Scale hardtail, which trims to just 849 grams (medium) frame-only, in the top-shelf RC trim. The big story here is the move to Boost spacing, which allows Scott to shorten up the chainstays 13mm. Both the existing RC and Plus versions continue, with more models. Scott remedies an oversight with last year’s Plus models, equipping the 710 and 720 Plus with dropper posts. With slack 66.5-degree head angles, 120mm travel forks and meaty 27.5x2.8-inch Maxxis Rekon tires, these are less race-geek rides and more rowdy singletrack play bikes.

We got to ride the new bikes over two days in Crested Butte in early August, including some lift-served shredding at the Evolution bike Park at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, and some trail riding on the legendary high-altitude singletrack.

Photograph by Joe Lindsey

We put the new Sparks to the test on some of Crested Butte’s most legendary trails, like 401.

I spent most of my time on the main Spark platform, both the 29er and 27.5 versions. In the park, the Spark seemed a bit undergunned, which was no surprise. On the steep, more technical park-like terrain, the clear pick would be a bike like the Genius LT Plus, with 170mm of travel or even the 130mm travel Genius Plus. Still, I had a fine time on it and never felt it was a bad pick for at least blue trails. (The Spark Plus, with a slacker seat angle and more stack, which position the rider’s weight farther back over the rear wheel, would be a more versatile option.)

In its more natural environment, alpine singletrack, the Spark came alive. Sparks have always climbed well, in part thanks to Scott’s Twinloc suspension remote. Twinloc controls front and rear suspension simultaneously, with a three-position lever that toggles the compression damping from open to pedal platform to full lockout. On a bike with two shifters and a dropper remote, the additional two levers and cables make for something of a complicated dashboard. And Scott acknowledges it’s more popular in the European market, where sections of singletrack are often linked by road climbs where lockout is welcome.

But in Crested Butte, at least, the setup came in handy. Our day started with a partial shuttle up Washington Gulch, but we were still faced with a long fire-road climb to a saddle where we picked up the 403 singletrack and more climbing. But it was where 403 started its precipitous descent that the new Spark suspension really showed its character.

Previous Sparks have been stiff in initial travel, a function of the lower leverage rate that requires more force to get the wheel moving. There’s no mistaking you’re on an XC bike. But with Twinloc flipped to the full open setting, the newer Spark felt much more capable as a trail bike.

The 403 trail is, like a lot of Crested Butte singletrack, an old-school trail. I wasn’t on a Plus version, rather a Spark 700 Premium ($8,000) with Maxxis’s 27.5x2.35 Forekaster tires. Gathering speed off the summit on the narrow singletrack, I dropped in to a series of almost fall-line switchbacks, rutted to a deep V shape and strewn with washboard bumps. I hit the remote for the Fox Transfer dropper post to get my weight back and pointed the front end down the center of the rut.

The Spark felt totally capable in that kind of terrain; likely far more than the old version would have. The Fox rear shock, a custom Scott tune on the Float series with the EVOL sleeve, soaked up the braking bumps without blowing through its travel, or ramping up to a harsh, locked-out feel you can sometimes find on shorter-travel bikes in very rough terrain. As a slight digression, the larger-volume air cans like the EVOL, or Rock Shox’s Debonair, seem clearly superior to me to their normal-volume counterparts. The suspension feel is markedly better, with improved small-bump sensitivity and solid platform support deeper in the travel. More and more bikes feature these shocks, with good reason.

Lower down, in long sections of flowy, benching singletrack warped through high alpine meadows thick with wildflowers, the suspension felt agile and responsive, compressing quickly to prejump a water bar, and soaking up the odd rock or log in the trail. Near-daily rain since July, including the morning of our ride, made exposed trail sections almost perfectly tacky, but as we descended through groves of evergreens, tree roots and bony sections of glacial-scoured granite were wet and slick. I’m a decent bike handler, but not a great one. I tend to like the long-low-slack feel of modern trail bikes because they seem to improve my control in such situations and give me more confidence against the chance of endo-ing.

There, the Spark wasn’t quite on par with some of the best trail bikes I’ve ridden. The head and seat angles are slightly steeper and put me a bit more forward on the bike than I usually prefer. The setup was a marked improvement over the existing Spark; but it also underlined that the Spark is Scott’s attempt to split the difference between XC and full-on trail bike, and it retains a bit of that character.

In anything less than very technical conditions, though, the bike was admirably balanced: precise in line choice; stout and slack enough to plow through moderate rock gardens and root sections; and efficient for long climbs, even without fully engaging the Twinloc.

All of which, it turned out, was a good thing. As we hit the bottom of the 403 trail at the Gothic Road trailhead, we turned our bikes north again and began the long fire road and singletrack climb back up to 11,300 feet. We paused a few minutes at the summit to catch our breath, taken away as much by the sweeping views of the Elk Mountains and the backside of the Maroon Bells Wilderness Area as the climb itself. Then we clipped in and began the long, rollercoaster descent down the legendary 401 trail back home.

REI to Relaunch Bike Line as 'Co-op Cycles'

REI, the largest outdoor co-op in the US, dropped some big news at Interbike 2016: It's completely overhauled its __bike line for 2017. Novara is no more; the new REI in-house line of bikes and cycling apparel will take the name Co-op Cycles, as well as a trail-first approach to bikes in keeping with the rest of REI’s outdoor- and adventure-oriented market.

The new Co-op Cycles line—with more than a dozen new mountain, road, city, and adventure bikes from $649 to $2,299, as well as redesigned apparel—will be aimed at current REI consumers when it launches in March.

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One reason for the change stems from a lack of product variety. REI recently found that while 70 percent of its members already identify as cyclists, its Novara __bike line didn’t offer much in the way of progression; the perception of the brand was that it was strictly entry-level.

“If someone is a hiker or climber and they want to get more into cycling, they’re not going to stay a beginner,” says REI Product Manager Cyndi Mundhek. “They’re a beginner that wants to grow because they’re already of that mindset.”

REI will not only offer a wider range of in-house bikes at all its stores, but also Ghost bikes for customers that have progressed to a more-advanced mountain bike. Salsa, Cannondale, and Diamondback bikes will be available at select stores.

The whole brand overhaul could be huge for REI’s vast women’s market in particular. Mundhek says REI has a much higher percentage of cycling customers that are women than the general industry, and that many women who shop at REI don’t typically shop at independent bike retailers. For those women—and other single-destination-minded outdoors shoppers—Co-op Cycles’ wider range of bikes and redesigned apparel addresses a big gap. No longer are customers stuck with that sense of  “permanent beginner” status if they’d like a bike with a bit more performance potential.

The co-op is seizing this opportunity to grow and foster its bike base throughout the company in other ways, as well.

“We’re taking a holistic approach to bikes at REI,” says Ben Johns, general merchandising manager for REI’s cycling business, in a press release. “We’re working across the co-op to invest in bike staff expertise and deepen our community impact through both educational and experiential riding events, as well as partnerships with local non-profits.”

The co-op will also continue to invest in cycling advocacy groups like PeopleForBikes and IMBA, and provide bike maintenance and bike maintenance classes. Last year, the company serviced 180,000 bikes and educated 37,000 people through cycling classes. “Bike maintenance” continues to be the co-op’s most popular class. 

The 9 Best Car Bike Racks to Buy in 2016

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By A. Courtney

Updated September 30, 2016.

Driving a __bike to the starting line, trailhead, or park is a hassle without the right __bike rack. The latest generation of racks are engineered to make moving your bike a cinch—you just need to pick the right one for your cycling lifestyle. If you’re also the type to haul skis, kayaks and/or surfboards, invest in a roof rack crossbar system enabling multiple carry options. If you’re looking for an easy-load bike rack that fits up to four bikes, new hitch racks insert into Class II hitches for simple and safe rear carry. If you have a sedan and carry bikes infrequently, a trunk rack is a simple solution; those with spare tires on their rear can even attach a rack to that. Think about how frequently you’ll be transporting bikes and what types of bikes you’ll be hauling, and be sure to measure your vehicle’s roof, rear, and clearance so you can find a rack that fits your ride.

Best Do-It-All Roof Rack: Yakima HighRoller

Buy from Amazon

Yakima’s flagship roof rack is strong and versatile enough to carry just about any bike in your garage, from the full-suspension downhill ride to the carbon-fiber road rig, to Junior’s first mountain bike. Best of all, the rack holds your bike by its front tire, not the frame, so there's no need to take it off for transport, as well as no risk of damage to your frame or paint job. The HighRoller’s burly front wheel tray firmly grips wheel sizes 20 to 29 inches and up to 3 inches wide. It also slides so you can position the rear wheel for lockdown and it’s designed to work around disc brakes, thru axles and suspension systems. The integrated cable lock will keep your bike safe on the pre-ride coffee stop, but you’ll have to buy the actual lock core separately. The HighRoller requires a roof rack, and it fits Yakima’s round and square crossbars and is compatible with factory rack crossbars when you add Universal MightyMounts (Buy on Amazon) or MightyMounts (Buy on Amazon)(each sold separately). Check Amazon rating »

Best Trunk Bike Rack: Thule Raceway Pro 2

Buy from Amazon

Trunk racks used to be synonymous with cheap materials, poor design and instability. They might make it to the park, but you don’t want to put your road ride on it. The Raceway Pro 2 is designed to attach to just about any sized sedan trunk in a snap, anchored at four points with high-strength, retractable cables and molded rubber pads to protect your paint job. Those aluminum wheel trays slope to minimize lifting and adjust to accommodate most bike sizes, including children’s sizes. The adjustable frame clamp grabs the top tube or seat post to keep bikes separated. Check Amazon rating »

Best Budget Trunk Bike Rack: Allen Sports Deluxe 2-Bike Trunk Mount

Buy from Amazon

If you’re occasionally driving your family’s bikes to the park or moving a bike to a new residence, The Allen Sports Deluxe 2-Bike Trunk Mount will get the job done without breaking the bank. It fits sedans, hatchbacks, minivans and SUVs, and it comes fully assembled and mounts in seconds. The tie-down systems are fixed in position on the carry arm, but rotate so that they can fit most bike frames and sizes. In addition to top and bottom straps, two side straps hold the entire system stable for highway driving. Check Amazon rating »

Best Budget Hitch Rack: Allen Sports Deluxe 2-Bike Hitch

Buy from Amazon

Adding a hitch to your car — even a sedan — is an easy after-market add-on that can increase capacity by connecting this brilliantly simple bike hitch. Allen Sports has been designing and building bike racks since 1967 when aerospace engineer Dick Allen transformed his Massachusetts garage into a rack factory so that he could transport his family’s bikes to Cape Cod. The Deluxe 2-Bike Hitch is expertly engineered to fit 1 ¼-inch and 2-inch hitch receivers so it will fit small cars, and it tilts back for lift-gate access on larger vehicles. Tie-downs are efficient and easy to use, and the carry arm will fit most frame sizes and designs up to 70 pounds. Check Amazon rating »

Best Do-It-All Hitch Rack: Thule T2 Pro 2

Buy from Amazon

Bike transport doesn’t get any easier than the Thule T2 Pro 2 Hitch Rack. It starts with Thule’s AutoAttach system, which clicks into your ride’s hitch sans tools and strife. A wheel-only lockdown system will fit wheels sizes 20 through 29 inches and up to 5 inches wide without any adaptors. This rack fits two bikes, and the wheel trays also adjust laterally to leave plenty of space between your rides. If you have to access your rear hatch, the rack’s HitchSwitch level allows it to tilt away from the vehicle. When you have to stop at the store, integrated cable and knob locks keep your bikes safe, and when not in use the rack folds into a small package. Check Amazon rating »

Best Road Trip Bike Rack: Yakima SwingDaddy

Buy from Amazon

Who doesn’t want to bring the bikes along on the road trip? Problem is, most hitch racks block access to your trunk, cutting off a vital supply line to your ride. Yakima engineers the solution in the SwingDaddy. The rack attaches to your hitch in a snap, and the hinged arm swings away from your vehicle for easy rear access. Up to four bikes can be strapped down on the padded arms, which are fully adjustable to fit most bikes and added anti-sway cradles eliminate instability, scuffs and scratches. If you’re planning on transporting step-through bikes, you’ll need to pick up an adapter from Yakima (sold separately). Check Amazon rating »

Best Spare Tire Bike Rack: Thule Spare Me 2

Buy from Amazon

Most hitch mounts can’t provide the separation to accommodate Jeeps or SUVs with a bolt-on spare tire on the back. Thule’s Spare Me 2 is a great option for those vehicles because it uses the existing mounting to secure the carrier and bikes. The Spare Me 2 adds Stay-Put cradles and detachable anti-sway cages to eliminate bike-on-bike and bike-on-Jeep contact. Integrated Locking Cable and Locking Knob secure bikes to the carrier and the carrier to vehicle, and the rack arms fold against the spare tire when not in use. Check Amazon rating »

Best Fat Bike Roof Rack: Rocky Mounts BrassKnuckles

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Fat Bikes are all the rage in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains for their ability to power over packed powder. Hop on a fat bike to pedal the snowy streets of Aspen or traverse single track. These off-road snow bikes are built with wide forks that fit oversized tires and rims — as wide as 5 inches. They won’t fit most conventional roof racks. Boulder-based Rocky Mounts solves the problem with their BrassKnuckles rack and The Fattie Kit (Buy on Amazon). On its own, BrassKnuckles can handle your road or 29-inch trail bike without clamping down on your frame. When the snow starts flying, add The Fattie Kit for a larger wheel chock and two ratchet strap extenders that accommodate your fat bike’s girth all winter long. Check Amazon rating »

Best Truck Bed Bike Rack: Yakima BikerBar

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There comes a time when you’ve invested too much time and money on your bike to just throw it in the flatbed. Install the Yakima BikerBar in your pickup truck to rack your rigs right. The BikerBar includes the crossbar and two lockable bike mounts and the drill-free installation system pops on and off with quick release levers. This rack requires removal of your front wheel, and it locks your bike down with Yakima SKS locks. Check Amazon rating »

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6 Things You Should Never Do Before Bed

Sleep.

We all need it, but we don't all do it well. While most people equate good sleep with getting 8 consecutive hours, a University of California at San Diego paper on sleep research and aging reviewed date from 1.1 million people and determined that there is no statistical reason to sleep longer than 6 1/2 hours per night. In fact, the people who slept 6 1/2 hours a night lived longer than the ones who slept 8!

Not to panic, getting 8 hours a night won't kill you. However, it does bring into focus what's really important: Your sleep quality. A lack of the right kind of sleep can increase your risk of heart disease and cancer, aid in weight gain, and even increase your risk of death.

It's just as important to avoid doing the wrong things before going to bed as it is doing the right ones. Here are the 6 most important things to avoid at night for the best sleep possible, adapted from The Bulletproof Diet:

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1. Bright lights

For at least a half hour before going to bed, try to avoid bright lights. Dim your office lights if you absolutely must be working this close to bedtime, and kill the unhealthy flourescent ones. This includes all those iDevices, too, including your phone, iPod, and even television. Why? Because even 5 minutes of white light from a screen suppresses melatonin levels, by more than 50 percent. Translation? Melatonin, otherwise known as the sleep hormone, levels in the blood rise sharply and you begin to feel less alert in the evening, and sleep becomes more inviting. If light is around, you'll have less of a natural inclination to hit the hay and stay sleeping.

2. Violence

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2. Violence

Not all that surprising, scary things can mess with your mind before hitting the sheets. Watching graphic violence on TV might make it harder for you to fall and stay asleep.

3. Exercise

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3. Exercise

You should not exercise for at least 2 hours before going to bed, unless you count restorative yoga and breathing exercises as exercise, says Asprey. Exercising in general, however, definitely helps sleep. A 2013 Sleep in America poll found that people who exercise at any time of day report sleeping better and feeling more rested than those who don't exercise.

4. Caffeine

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4. Caffeine

In general, don’t drink coffee after 2:00 p.m. or at least 8 hours before bedtime, whichever comes first. This will make sure you get all of the cognitive benefits of caffeine without sacrificing your sleep. Researchers at Michigan's Henry Ford Hospital's Sleep Disorders & Research Center and Wayne State College of Medicine found that caffeine consumed even six hours before bedtime resulted in significantly diminished sleep quality and sleep quantity. The best thing you can do? Keep track of your caffeine intake and sleep patterns to see how it affects you.

5. Second wind

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5. Second wind

There is a window from 10:45 and 11:00 p.m. or so when you naturally get tired, that fluctuates based on season. According to Bulletproof Diet author Dave Asprey, if you don’t go to sleep then and choose to stay awake, you’ll get a cortisol-driven "second wind" that can keep you awake until 2:00 a.m. For some, that can be majorly detrimental to their overall productivity.

So what's the golden amount of sleep? Well, that's up for debate. One recent study found that sleeping 9 hours or more was just as harmful as sleeping 5 or less. Whereas cognitive performance peaked at about seven hours of sleep, according to date from Lumosity.

6. Sleep

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6. Sleep

Perhaps the most common reason people report not being able to sleep is that they don’t know how to clear their minds and stop worrying. For that, Asprey suggests deep-breathing exercises like Art of Living, pranayama yoga, and meditation, which can do wonders for helping your brain shut down, recuperate, and prepare for the next day.

Avoid These 7 Common Foam-Rolling Mistakes

You wouldn't trade those hours on the __bike for anything, but sometimes, being hunched over the handlebars for miles on end leads to tight, achy muscles. The good news: You don’t have to shell out for weekly cycling-specific massages to fix the kinks. 

Foam rolling, a form of self-massage that breaks up knots in muscles and surrounding connective tissue (called fascia), “is great for recovery and has the ability, when coupled with the right exercises, to improve your posture and functional performance,” says David Reavy, a physical therapist and founder of React Physical Therapy in Chicago, Illinois. All that’s required is a high-density foam cylinder, and a bit of time spent working your muscles over it. (Manduka's beLONG Foam Body Roller is our tool of choice.)

The process seems simple enough, but it's easy to use improper technique when starting out—which leads to ineffective recovery, and possibly injury. Below, we explore the most common foam rolling mistakes, plus expert tips for how to fix them.

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Rolling out your lower back or neck

Why It’s Bad: Placing a foam roller beneath your lumbar spine (aka lower back) or neck can cause strain and hyperextension, says Justin Russ, CSCS, a strength and conditioning coach and TriggerPoint master trainer in Florida. “Doing this can produce more stress on the spine by taking it out of neutral posture,” he says. “Whenever you're rolling, it's important to stay stable through the core and maintain spinal integrity.”

What to Do Instead: If you have discomfort in your lumbar spine, work on releasing knots in your hip flexors, quads, and upper back instead, Russ suggests, as tightness in these areas often leads to aches in your lower back. 

Pain in your neck? That’s often caused by tightness in your trapezius (the muscle in the center of your upper back and shoulders), which is a much safer muscle to massage. 

Only rolling up and down across a knot

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Only rolling up and down across a knot

Why It’s Bad: You risk making the problem worse. “If you only roll up and down over a painful knot, the muscle will react by reflexively tightening up further to protect itself,” says Reavy.

What to Do Instead: While you’re working an area, stop rolling and move that muscle in its range of motion with pressure applied to it to dig into the knot, advises Reavy. For instance, when you hit a tender spot on your quad, stop there and—maintaining pressure with the roller—bend and extend your knee until you feel the knot start to relax.

Try this Get Fast Foam-Rolling Workout:

Only rolling at night

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Only rolling at night

Why It’s Bad: It’s not necessarily wrong to roll out in the evening; in fact, doing so can relax your body and lead to better sleep, says Reavy. But not rolling in the morning or before your ride means your muscles won’t function as well as they could throughout the day.

What to Do Instead: Roll right when you wake up, or at least before you head out for a ride or other workout. “Releasing your muscles first thing in the morning will allow for improved use of your entire body more efficiently for the rest of your day,” says Reavy. “Doing so will help increase your range of motion and motor control, and improve your flexibility.”

Starting your rolling session on the muscle that feels tightest

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Starting your rolling session on the muscle that feels tightest

Why It’s Bad: The muscle that feels tight or hurts is often not the muscle that you need to unwind. For instance, hip flexors (which are often tight and overworked in cyclists) can cause a lot of discomfort elsewhere, says Reavy. “The hip flexors cross eight joints and when they become too tight, they limit the mobility in all of these joints,” he says. Plus, tight hip flexors pull your pelvis forward, which leads to sticking out your butt and decreasing the effectiveness of the abs and glutes. When your glutes and abs aren’t firing up correctly, it puts extra strain on your quads while you ride. 

What to Do Instead: Regardless of where you notice tightness, start rolling by unwinding your hips, then move out to your glutes, hamstrings, mid- and upper back, and then quads, suggests Russ. 

Rolling too quickly

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Rolling too quickly

Why It’s Bad: Just as with only rolling up and down on a muscle, you risk causing a muscle to tighten up if you roll too quickly. Plus, rolling too quickly means you likely won’t be able to target the deep tissue where tightness is really a problem. “It will only address the superficial layers of fascia and not induce the positive change in the muscle tissue that we're looking for,” Russ says. 

Typically it takes 30 to 60 seconds of rolling in one spot on a tight muscle to get it to relax, says Reavy. “In the beginning, it might take you longer to release a muscle, depending on how tight or inflexible you are to begin with,” he says. 

What to Do Instead: Reavy advises spending a full 30 minutes on foam rolling during a rest or recovery day, followed by stretching. 

If you only have a few minutes to devote to rolling, your time is better spent releasing just a few muscles in a slow, controlled way. Reavy recommends cyclists target the quads, glutes, upper back, and calves.

Staying on a tight muscle too long

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Staying on a tight muscle too long

Why It’s Bad: If a knot doesn’t seem to be releasing, continuing to work on it will likely just cause more soreness. “You can end up with bruising or get injured,” warns Reavy. 

What to Do Instead: “If a knot won’t release, try working above or below that muscle instead,” he says. For example, if you hit a stubborn knot in your quads, roll just outside of it, or work more on your hip flexors. “It can be better to work around the affected muscle to get to it,” he says.